For those who aren't sated yet (and who could be, whose sense of taste has ever been assaulted by something of purported quality?) Unpalatable - defamatory restaurant reviews is the article to read.
So hyperlinked that it should carry an overindulgence warning (NOT TO BE TAKEN IN ONE DOSE) it is the work of Eoin O’Dell in Cearta.ie: the Irish for rights, a blog that champions so much that I believe in that one of these days, I'll have to question O'Dell's integrity.
What makes Unpalatable so delicious? In one encyclopaedic (and sure to be updated) entry, expertise and fancy mix. Dr O'Dell is a Fellow and Senior Lecturer at Trinity College's School of Law, yet he not only writes lucidly and in the fewest words, but:
I’ve always quite fancied the idea of being a food critic: I like food, and I can be critical (just like the guy in the cartoon on the left . . .); what's not to like? Well, a flurry of litigation in various jurisdictions over the last few months has made me reconsider.
The cartoon's hilarious, and linked to a Book That Needed to Be Written.